Kawasaki FJ400D

Kawasaki FJ400DThe Kawasaki FJ400D is a 0.4 l (401 cc, 24.47 cu-in) single-cylinder air-cooled 4-stroke internal combustion small gasoline engine with horizontal shaft manufactured by Kawasaki Heavy Industries LTd., for general-purpose applications.

The FJ400D engine has an OHV (overhead valve) design; float type carburetor with fixed main jet; transistorized flywheel magneto ignition system; diaphragm type fuel pulse pump; mechanical governor and shift-type electric starter.

Bore and stroke are 82.0 mm (3.23 in) and 76.0 mm (2.99 in), respectively. Compression ratio rating is 8.2:1. The Kawasaki FJ400D motor produced 13.2 PS (9.7 kW; 13.0 HP) at 3,600 rpm of maximum horsepower and 26.5 Nm (2.7 kg·m; 19.6 ft·lb) at 2,400 rpm of torque.

General information

Engine Specifications
Model FJ400D
Type 4-stroke, OHV, single cylinder
Displacement 401 cm 3 (24.47 cu-in)
Max. horsepower 13.2 PS (9.7 KW; 13.0 HP) at 3,600 rpm
Max. torque (crank PTO) 26.5 Nm (2.7 kg·m; 19.6 ft·lb) at 2,400 rpm
Carburetor Float type with fixed main jet
Cooling system Forced-air
Ignition system Transistorized flywheel magneto
Lubricating system Splash
Starting system Shift type electric starter
Stoping system Ignition primary circuit ground
Fuel used Unleaded gasoline (octane number 86 or higher)
PTO shaft rotation Counterclockwise (from PTO shaft side)

Dimensions and Weight

Kawasaki FJ400D
Length 330 mm (13.0 in)
Width 430 mm (16.9 in)
Height 313 mm (12.3 in)
Dry weight 31.5 kg (69.5 lbs)

Service Information

Maximum speed 4,000 ± 100 rpm
Idle speed 1,150 ± 150 rpm
Oil system
Oil type 4-stroke or an equivalent (SF, SG, SH, or SJ)
Recommended oil SAE 10W-30
Oil capacity 1.3 L
Ignition system
Spark plug NGK: BPR5ES
Spark plug gap 0.7-0.8 mm (0.028-0.031 in)
Ignition coil air gap 0.3 mm (0.012 in)
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    • Depends if it has automatic compression release. If it is a 2015 or newer chances are it does. 126 psi min on the older ones. 90 psi on the 2015 and up. Normally you would be told that you cant get an accurate compression reading on the ACR equipped engine and they are correct. However after diagnosing these things for a few years now, I can say I’m pretty sure that it’s safe to compression check it if it has the ACR. Leak down test is better if you can get one. No more than a 15% loss. 20% percent is pushing it. I hope this helps.

  1. Is there a port that could feed an oil cooler on one of these ? Mine is from an EZGO golf cart.

  2. I have a club car with 401 and it starts hard and acts like it’s running out of fuel all the time I’ve changed the fuel pump and plug but it has no power I just bought it and the papers say the engine only has 15 hours on new crankshaft.

  3. Looking for the correct piston, rings, and connecting rod, for this motor; I am rebuilding it. Any help in locating the parts is appreciated.

  4. It only has 60 pounds of compression dry and 90 lbs of compression with a wet test I reall wonder if that’s enough and where is the compression release located

  5. Hello, I want to measure the tool used to pull the clutch Ezgo400cc fj 2016 model. I want to measure the right tool for it

  6. I want to change the clutch for a 2016 Ezgo wagon I want to measure the tool used to pull the clutch I have a 400cc fj engine

  7. Need a new plastic magneto cover for a Kawasaki FJ400D (3 screw mount)
    Anyone know the part number and where I can purchase one?
    Thank in advance for a reply.

  8. Hello,

    I am building an engine model in GT-Power and I would like to get these attribute:

    1. Start of cycle
    2. Engine friction (FMEP)
    3. Connecting Rod Length
    4. Piston mass
    5. Connecting rod mass and inertia
    6.Con-rod center of gravity

    Any help on that would be very appreciated.


  9. I have a ezgo with a fj4ood in it. For a few years I’ve been having problems with it starting, but when it does it runs good but after it sits fir a hour or more same thing happens. I figured it was a fuel issue, but I changed and did everything that would eliminate that idea. So I did a spark test, it has spark but dim. So I cleaned up the magnet on the fly wheel and the coil without taking it of with a wire brush. That seamed to make work alot better, but not what it should be. So I took the coil off and cleaned it really good, it had rust on the bottom where it would go over the magnet. Now it is even worst than it was when it was before I cleaned it the first time. I’ve gapped with in the specs. I’m losing my mind over this lol open to any suggestions I’m thinking new coil, but not sure.

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