Kawasaki FJ400D

Kawasaki FJ400DThe Kawasaki FJ400D is a 0.4 l (401 cc, 24.47 cu-in) single-cylinder air-cooled 4-stroke internal combustion small gasoline engine with horizontal shaft manufactured by Kawasaki Heavy Industries LTd., for general-purpose applications.

The FJ400D engine has an OHV (overhead valve) design; float type carburetor with fixed main jet; transistorized flywheel magneto ignition system; diaphragm type fuel pulse pump; mechanical governor and shift-type electric starter.

Bore and stroke are 82.0 mm (3.23 in) and 76.0 mm (2.99 in), respectively. Compression ratio rating is 8.2:1. The Kawasaki FJ400D motor produced 13.2 PS (9.7 kW; 13.0 HP) at 3,600 rpm of maximum horsepower and 26.5 Nm (2.7 kg·m; 19.6 ft·lb) at 2,400 rpm of torque.

General information

Engine Specifications
Model FJ400D
Type 4-stroke, OHV, single cylinder
Displacement 401 cm 3 (24.47 cu-in)
Max. horsepower 13.2 PS (9.7 KW; 13.0 HP) at 3,600 rpm
Max. torque (crank PTO) 26.5 Nm (2.7 kg·m; 19.6 ft·lb) at 2,400 rpm
Carburetor Float type with fixed main jet
Cooling system Forced-air
Ignition system Transistorized flywheel magneto
Lubricating system Splash
Starting system Shift type electric starter
Stoping system Ignition primary circuit ground
Fuel used Unleaded gasoline (octane number 86 or higher)
PTO shaft rotation Counterclockwise (from PTO shaft side)

Dimensions and Weight

Kawasaki FJ400D
Length 330 mm (13.0 in)
Width 430 mm (16.9 in)
Height 313 mm (12.3 in)
Dry weight 31.5 kg (69.5 lbs)

Service Information

Maximum speed 4,000 ± 100 rpm
Idle speed 1,150 ± 150 rpm
Oil system
Oil type 4-stroke or an equivalent (SF, SG, SH, or SJ)
Recommended oil SAE 10W-30
Oil capacity 1.3 L
Ignition system
Spark plug NGK: BPR5ES
Spark plug gap 0.7-0.8 mm (0.028-0.031 in)
Ignition coil air gap 0.3 mm (0.012 in)
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    • Depends if it has automatic compression release. If it is a 2015 or newer chances are it does. 126 psi min on the older ones. 90 psi on the 2015 and up. Normally you would be told that you cant get an accurate compression reading on the ACR equipped engine and they are correct. However after diagnosing these things for a few years now, I can say I’m pretty sure that it’s safe to compression check it if it has the ACR. Leak down test is better if you can get one. No more than a 15% loss. 20% percent is pushing it. I hope this helps.

  1. Is there a port that could feed an oil cooler on one of these ? Mine is from an EZGO golf cart.

  2. I have a club car with 401 and it starts hard and acts like it’s running out of fuel all the time I’ve changed the fuel pump and plug but it has no power I just bought it and the papers say the engine only has 15 hours on new crankshaft.

  3. Looking for the correct piston, rings, and connecting rod, for this motor; I am rebuilding it. Any help in locating the parts is appreciated.

  4. It only has 60 pounds of compression dry and 90 lbs of compression with a wet test I reall wonder if that’s enough and where is the compression release located

  5. Hello, I want to measure the tool used to pull the clutch Ezgo400cc fj 2016 model. I want to measure the right tool for it

  6. I want to change the clutch for a 2016 Ezgo wagon I want to measure the tool used to pull the clutch I have a 400cc fj engine

    • I am usually 30 minutes on a golf cart oil change.

      On a sunny day in the Mohawk Valley of New York before golf season – I drive my cart a distance at open throttle to warm the engine after storage – keep in mind I am a DIY mechanic who will usually change a truck or car oil at the same time, and the cart maintenance time is short, and clean motor oil is inexpensive.
      Based on my cart’s hour meter and having 5 golfers in my family, I will change oil in April and again in mid-July, or so each season to keep it cared for.

      I prop my 2012 E-Z Go cart up by backing the driver’s side rear wheel carefully up my oil change ramp normally used for my Rav4 Toyota. I use just 1 ramp and I chock the other wheels, so that they cannot move when I am under the edge of the machine.

      I drain the oil from the 19MM drain plug hole and replace it with a synthetic 10w-30 oil of my choice back to the 1.3L volume specification.

      I do deviate from spec and change the oil filter element with every other oil change, and I will give the warmed engine a few extra minutes to allow the slow drain of the last few drips of oil that wish to exit.

      Check out the other service points up under there and lube the cables and etc., while playing with the maintenance, and I am usually good to go inside of 30 to 40 minutes, the most time taken to clean the cart and the area around it and put the tools and props away after I am done.

  7. I would like to buy a new fj400d. If you or someone you kno can steer me in the right direction please let me know thanks.

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